Tory is a Viking

14 June

2009-06-14T10:19:00.000-07:00

Today is the last day of my trip. What?!

Somehow I was fortunate enough to have nice weather two days in a row; the sun was shining again when I awoke this morning.

I met Marie and her roommate for coffee at noon, and then spent my afternoon visiting the Danish National Gallery and the fortified citadel in the north of the city. The National Gallery was great (free admission!) and had a fascinating collection of artifacts from 20,000 BC to present day. They had arms & armor, pottery, and jewelry from the stone age, bronze age, and iron age. I was really impressed by the quality of the preservation.

The citadel was really neat too (also free admission.) Visitors were invited to walk along the ramparts, which overlooked the water and the surrounding area. There were a lot of people out today enjoying the nice change in weather, and it was certainly nice to be among them.

Tomorrow I have to get up at (censored) o’clock to travel across town to the airport to catch my morning flight back to the States. Fortunately, Continental has great entertainment options on their transatlantic flights, so the trip shouldn’t be too grueling. I will finally land in Raleigh at around 3:30 pm.

I only have a few days in Raleigh before I’ll be heading back up to Blacksburg, where I have two jobs for the rest of the summer to earn money so I can eat in the fall.

I am looking forward to seeing some of you in a few days!

The Copenhagen Opera House

Farewell photograph. I need to shave...

Shields from the bronze age

More picturesqueness. <-- That is a real word

Pretty Anglican Cathedral overlooking the moat across from the citadel

13 June

2009-06-14T10:18:00.000-07:00

I got up nice and early this morning and caught a 7:50 train from Göteborg to København (Copenhagen), Denmark. Most of the ride was pretty uneventful. The weather was cloudy and we traveled through mostly rural areas until we arrived in Malmö, Sweden’s third largest city, near the southernmost tip of Sweden.

We were parked in Malmö for about 15 minutes before setting out once again to cross over the Kattegat into Denmark. The crossing was pretty dramatic – we were high above the water for several minutes on a huge bridge before plunging into a tunnel and finishing the last bit of the crossing underwater, finally emerging in the Danish capital, København (pronounced Cope-m-hawm).

What a beautiful city! Apparently the city was just emerging from a week of constant rain showers as I arrived. A friend of mine from high school, Marie LaHaye, is spending part of her summer in Denmark studying psychology and working with special needs children in Copenhagen. She met me at the train station when I finally arrived at about noon, and we spent the day exploring the city together. We visited the historic old town, grabbed some lunch, and finally hit up a grocery store for some dinner fixings. I cooked my favorite dish, lemon ginger chicken, for Marie and her roommate.

I am staying at the Denmark City Hostel, which is conveniently located only a few blocks from the train station and the city center. It is the largest city hostel in Europe, boasting a remarkable 18 stories of rooms. I am on the 13th story, and my room has an incredible view. Unfortunately, the hostel is run by fascists who charge $15.00 for breakfast and $8.00 for an hour of access to their wifi. I am somewhat appalled, but at least the rooms are nice.

As a side note, the bar/café I am in right now is playing Def Leapord. Pour some sugar on me.
After dinner I took a second walking tour through the city to appreciate the pleasant weather and ambience. Being rather exhausted after a long day, I came very close to just collapsing into my hostel, but resolved to explore the city again by night. I was handsomely rewarded by a spontaneous midnight fireworks display just as I arrived at the central square. People streamed out of the nearby bars and nightclubs to watch the display. I asked several Copenhagen natives what was going on, and they were just as surprised as I was.

Just a regular Saturday night, they said.

Marie is good at taking pictures (Gotcha!)

Countless canals

View from my hostel. Nice, yes?

Midnight

12 June

2009-06-12T10:33:00.000-07:00

Well, today it rained all day. Hard.

The two main things on my agenda for my last day in Sweden (yikes!) were visiting the Volvo headquarters/museum and the Palmhuset (a gigantic greenhouse with several self-contained ecosystems worth of plant life.

Thanks to the great public transport here, I was able to minimize my exposure to the constant downpour and visit both places. In between, I got to see some more of the city. The Volvo museum was really cool - it housed nearly a hundred cars, trucks, and engines from the company's 80-year history. There were also a number of recent concept cars, including one that actually takes 3 cars worth of air pollutants from the ambient atmosphere and absorbs them into its catalytic converter as it drives. Very cool.

Palmhuset was also exciting to see. Each of the five sections of the greenhouse had a distinct temperature and humidity. As a result, trees and plants from 6 continents can be housed inside.

At the end of the day, the conditions shifted from steady rain to sporadic torrential rain, adding considerably to the excitement of pedestrian travel. My shoes and socks are now totally soaked from walking through puddles for hours, but my jacket is holding up alright.

I fly home in less than 72 hours... it is really incredible how quickly these past weeks have gone by. I still haven't seen Copenhagen though - so I still have that to look forward to!

This concept car was designed exclusively by a team of women engineers.
"A car that meets the expectations of women exceeds the expectations of men"
The headrests have grooves in them to accommodate ponytails.

This concept car cleans the air while you drive it

This is not a car at all

11 June

2009-06-12T10:17:00.000-07:00

Today I traveled from Stockholm (on the Baltic coast) to Göteborg (on the coast of the Skagerrak.) Göteborg was founded by Gustav II Adolf, a.k.a. Gustavus Adolphus, in the early 17th century. We know the city as Gothenburg.

Gothenburg, Sweden's second largest city, is ideally situated at the mouth of the Göte river. Its strategic location has made it the busiest port in Scandinavia, and today Gothenburg is known as "the face of Sweden." After traveling across the country from east to west, the most noticable thing about Sweden was its flatness, especially in contrast to Norway. Sweden's flat terrain make it ideal for high-speed rail travel and agriculture, and I have certainly noticed a pick-up in the speed and quality of the trains over here.

I arrived in Göteborg at about 1:30, and contrary to the weather forecast, it wasn't raining. Rather, I was greeted by relatively amiable overcast skies. I spent the afternoon exploring the city and walking around the harbor. As the day progressed, the skies darkened gradually and it began to rain. I headed back to my hostel (via a very extensive tram system) at around dinnertime and made myself a nice frozen pizza.

One of the city's many canals

The Göteborg Opera house, which overlooks the river

Bicycle path

10 June

2009-06-11T10:31:00.000-07:00

For anyone expecting a day of wild kayaking, rich in capsizing and collisions with cruise ships, I apologize. After several days of better-than-average weather in Stockholm, the conditions returned to normal today, with rain and temperatures in the low 50's.

I went and watched a very wet changing of the guard at around noon, and otherwise spent the day walking around the city again. I was determined to find a cheap place to eat that wasn't cheeseburgers/kebabs, and after a long hunt, I found a hole-in-the-wall Sushi/Thai place with really good prices. I considered getting the sushi, but I was famished, so I went with a pad thai dish. IT WAS SO FREAKING GOOD. Best pad thai I think I've had. The nicest part was that it was only 89 SEK including tax and tip, making it essentially the same price as a thai entree in the United States. Dinner was definitely the highlight of this rainy Wednesday.

9 June

2009-06-09T11:16:00.000-07:00

I was really tired last night... I haven't used any buses or trams since I arrived in Trondheim a week ago, so I've been walking 10-15 miles a day. Good exercise, but at the end of the day I'm beat! I resolved to reward all my city trekking with a night of sleep sans alarm (For the first time on the whole trip!). A dangerous prospect.

So I awoke at noon to a sunny city and a maid cleaning the room. To make up for some of the lost time, I ate my breakfast on the go (a cinnamon roll and a coffee) and headed over to the National Museum, which is basically next door. My favorite part of the museum was the section with the Swedish design. I got to see the famous "Concrete Chair" and a plethora of other super cool furnishings. Unlike the National Gallery in Oslo, I was actually allowed to bring in my camera, so I took a ton of pictures. There was also a whole section of European art from the 16th century to present. There was a large collection from the famous Swedish painter/designer Carl Larsson, as well as some selected works from Monet, Degas, Gauguin, and others. The paintings were cool, but the 5000 square feet of Scandinavian design (furniture, silverware, light fixtures, and much more) was really awesome!

After a few hours in the museum, I set out into the heart of the city again, with no clear intentions but to walk. The weather has been really great since I got hear, so it's been nice to just wander around. I got a nice hot lunch, capped off with a crepe at the neighboring cafe. Then I walked over to the central station and grabbed my reservations for Thursday's train to Göteborg.

Tomorrow is already my last day in Stockholm... I haven't decided exactly what I want to do yet...

Tune in tomorrow afternoon and find out!

These billboards are all over town - I like 'em!

The cuteness brigade is in attack mode!

Stockholm's National Museum

The famous "Concrete Chair"

Cool cabinet

Want!

8 June

2009-06-09T11:11:00.001-07:00

So today I finally checked into my hostel in Stockholm. I wasn't allowed to check into a room until 3, so I had a lot of time to kill with my luggage. I left all my clothes in the storage room at the hostel and went for a three-hour walk through the city.

This hostel has a pretty bizarre wireless internet set-up, so I was hoping to find a cafe somewhere and grab a coffee/check my email after walking around Stockholm for a while. That didn't go very well... I went to seven different cafes, none of which had wifi or any employees that knew of a cafe that did. I eventually broke down and just had a cappuccino sans internet. While there I was able to use wifi from Burger King of all places, but after 20 minutes I was prompted to pay by the minute.

When I was finally able to check into my room, it was time to hop on the train again to head back to Uppsala for a barbecue with Caitlin's hallmates. We grilled up some tasty local sausage and steaks and indulged in some interesting conversation. While abroad, my favorite thing to talk about is the local perception of America. I try my best to be a good ambassador.

After dinner and a few beers it was about 10 pm and finally darkening a bit. I walked back through Uppsala one last time and took a few parting photographs before catching the 10:09 train back to Stockholm. I was hoping to get some dramatic nighttime shots when I got back, but it turns out that the Swedes actually turn off most of their lights at night... so it was... dark.

Stockholm by night

Barbecue time!

A pleasant evening in Uppsala

7 June

2009-06-07T15:08:00.000-07:00

Uppsala!

Caitlin and I spent today walking around the city of Uppsala and enjoying the pleasant weather. We visited the botanical gardens, the cathedral, and walked along the Fyråson river, which runs right through the heart of the city. I got a pizza for lunch, which came with a nice salad, for only about 8 dollars. This was very nice. Sweden, to my surprise, does seem to be about half the price of Norway.

Tomorrow I am taking a morning train back to Stockholm, where I'll be moving into my hostel and getting acclimated once again to the urban surroundings.

Botanical Gardens

Botany pwns.

Placid section of the river running through town

Awesome neoclassical architecture!

Uppsala cathedral

6 June

2009-06-07T07:45:00.000-07:00

Happy D-Day everyone!

Today was my first full day in Sweden. I am staying with my friend Caitlin Cossaboom for a few days before I transition into the Chapman Hostel in Stockholm. Caitlin is spending the summer at a University in Uppsala, which is 40 minutes north of Stockholm by train. Today was Sweden's national day, so we took the train into town and explored the city. It was very exciting for both of us; neither of us had been to Sweden's capital, also the largest city in Scandinavia.

Venice is the Stockholm of the South.

You might have heard that the other way around... but Stockholm is freaking awesome. What Sweden lacks in fjords and mountains it makes up for with its stupendous architecture and glorious cities. Uppsala and Stockholm are both very picturesque and welcoming. Most things have been about half the price of their Norwegian counterparts thus far. Add another point to the Swedish column.

Our day in Stockholm was mostly spent touring the city on foot. We visited the royal palace and saw the changing of the guard, explored some of Gamle Stan (the old city), and sampled some of the local delicacies. Swedish pastries are excellent.

We eventually returned to Uppsala for our evening, where we watched Sweden play Denmark in a World Cup qualifying match. Crushing defeat - Denmark edged out the Swedes 1-0.

Tomorrow Caitlin and I are going to explore Uppsala's town and gardens and do some laundry. Monday morning I am headed back to Stockholm for a few days.

Part of Stockholm's extensive network of waterways

It was actually quite chilly - about 45 degrees or so

The old Chapman ship, which is now a hostel

My awesome hostess for a few days, enjoying a Swedish pastry!

One of the ten thousand islands which comprise the Stockholm archipelago

5 June

2009-06-06T14:02:00.000-07:00

Goodbye, Norway!

It's been a great twenty days. While it is still fresh in my mind...

9 Great Things About Norway:

1. Stupendous geography, rich in vast mountain ranges, spectacular fjords, numerous waterfalls, and huge forests
2. Friendly, well-educated people
3. 100% powered by renewable energy (hydro power!)
4. Good train system, excellent bus system
5. You have to pay for bags at the grocery store (encourages using your own)
6. Great hostels! I was most impressed with the breakfasts.
7. Good traditional cuisine (great seafood!) a nice mix of international foods
8. Free water at most restaurants (!!!)
9. Universal healthcare and welfare (Norway is essentially a socialist country with a very high standard of living)

and...

5 Somewhat-less-than-Awesome Things About Norway:

1. Food costs 3-4 times as much than in the USA (The standard combos at McDonald's range from $13-$17)
2. Alcohol costs about 3 times as much as in the USA and wine/liquor can only be purchased at special government-run stores with limited hours (Cheapest pint of beer I found was $9)
3. Unique currency, not a member of the E.U. (But they are a member of NATO)
4. Smoking is really, really cool and is very popular among all the cool people here
5. Economy is currently anchored by oil exports (meh)

Today was a super-long day of travel. I left at 8:20 AM and arrived in Uppsala, Sweden at 7 PM.

There was a great sunset last night. Like, really incredible.

And it turns out that today was graduation day for schools all over Sweden. And during my layover in Östersund I saw between 30 and 50 dump trucks which had been converted into party wagons full of drunken co-eds blaring party music and drinking champagne.

It was madness. A completely inappropriate introduction to the country, but enjoyable all the same.

Tomorrow is Sweden's national day, so Caitlin and I are going into Stockholm, which is only a 40 minute train ride from here. Time has been tight here, but I'll do my best to keep up with posts.

4 June

2009-06-04T11:38:00.000-07:00

Last night I actually had roommates for the first time in a while. I had my own room (accidently) in Flåm and the hostel in Stryn was pretty much deserted. I was sleeping in uninterrupted silence and it was great! So I had gotten to the point of taking it for granted. Unfortunately, I had a rude awakening. (Get it?!) I was accompanied last night by a symphony of snoring, with sounds ranging from clogged drain to flatulence to band saw.

Some time before I fell asleep I resolved to switch to a single room for my last night in Norway, since I have done so well on my budgeting thus far. After taking care of that upon waking, I grabbed a quick breakfast, checked my email, and headed out into the rain to explore Trondheim. As I mentioned in my last post, Trondheim's Nidaros Cathedral, whose construction began in the eleventh century, is the largest cathedral in Scandinavia and the northernmost in the world. The nearby archbishop's palace also host's the Norwegian crown jewels.

When I woke up this morning I had around 1300 NOK left, and only two meals to pay for. I initially resolved to go shopping, given the crappy weather, but there was a non-rip-off exchange desk at the train station where I changed most of my money into SEK (Swedish crowns).

So all I bought in my shopping excursion was a pineapple.

However, the cashier rang it up as a kiwi. So I got a big, ripe, extra-sweet Costa Rican pineapple for less than a dollar. Definitely the best buy I have made since my arrival in Norway.

I spent my day visiting the cathedral and a few other sights and window shopping in a few different malls to avoid the rain. I also got the reservations for my train travel in Sweden tomorrow. I'll be traveling on an X2000, which sounds more like a fighter jet than a train. Fine with me!

The Nidaros Cathedral

Detail of the masonry

Trondheim canal with Nidaros in the background

3 June

2009-06-04T09:13:00.000-07:00

Today was another big travel day. I awoke in Stryn in 8:15, had breakfast, and caught the three hour bus back to Otta, where I had a 5-hour layover. Fortunately, bus station layovers are better than airport layovers because in bus station layovers you aren't in an airport. The bus station was right in the middle of Otta, so I had a chance to walk around town a bit and grab a non-airport lunch. However, a hamburger with fries (no drink) from a place at the mall still costed me 18 dollars due to the whole being-in-Norway situation. Apparently most of Norway is twice as expensive as Sweden? (According to the guy running the Stryn Hostel)

After my long travel break, I caught a 3-hour train from Otta to Trondheim, Norway's fourth largest city. Trondheim was once the capital of Norway, and its cathedral is the largest in Scandinavia and the northernmost in the world. For most of the train ride we were traveling through a blizzard... which I guess isn't too odd, seeing as Trondheim is the farthest north I have ever been!

When I finally arrived in Trondheim it was 9 pm, and thankfully, it wasn't raining. I forgot to check online for directions to the hostel before I left Otta, so I had to make a quick reference in the train station to find out how to get to the Trondheim Vandrerjhem. Despite strict ordinances in Trondheim against street signs, I managed to find the hostel without too much difficulty. Again, there is a pretty good view. Tomorrow I'm hoping to do a tour of the city. It'll be my last full day in Norway!

Sunset, at 11:15 pm

12 AM. It doesn't get any darker than this.

2 June

2009-06-02T10:54:00.000-07:00

Today was the Tour de Fjord.

I awoke at 7:50 to get an early start on the day, because the weather was calling for afternoon showers. My knee had gotten verrrry stiff and sore overnight, to the extent that I was limping through breakfast. Again, there was a great breakfast at the hostel. Fruit, veggies, cereal, bread, jam, nutella, salmon (!), waffles, hash browns, eggs, and much more. I rented a bike for... free actually. There were signs everywhere advertising bike rental for 99 kr per day, but the guy told me I could rent one for free. I wasn't going to demand an explanation.

My first stop was the pharmacy in "downtown" Stryn, where I bought some painkillers for my knee. I popped 1000 mg of the good stuff and got underway. My destination was Loen, a quaint town 13 km away, where I there is a glacier coming all the way down into the water. The methodical motion of pedaling the bike didn't really hurt my knee at all, even before the meds kicked in. After a few kilometers, it was totally loosened up.

After about an hour of hard pedaling, and several stops for photos, I arrived in Loen. There were no glaciers in sight. After a few minutes of confusion, I came to a sign that read: "Kjenndalsbreen: 19." For a moment I tried to convince myself that I was on Route 19 and almost there. It seemed plausible, but after a little later I came to a sign that read: "Kjenndalsbreen: 18." I wasn't even halfway there yet. This was going to be one hell of a ride.

When I finally did make it, the scene was pretty cool. The Kjenndal glacier is one of the arms of the enormous Jostedalsbreen glacier (on which I went skiing yesterday.) The nice thing about the Kjenndal is that it extends down into a valley very close to sea level, all the way down to 500 feet, so there is a road leading all the way to the glacier. I was told by someone that the Kjenndalsbreen was only about 30 minutes away from Stryn by bike, so I had only packed a bit of water and my camera. The water ran out quickly, but I got to refill it with meltwater from the glacier. Delicious!

Rain showers were due to roll in for the afternoon, so I only rested for a few minutes before beginning the long ride home. The head wind on the return trip was pretty ferocious, making even flat sections of road difficult. When I was about 8 kilometers out, I rode through a ten minute downpour, which actually felt pretty nice. My first stop back in Stryn was the grocery store, where I devoured a bunch of bread, a pastry, and some apple juice mixed with sparkling water.

All in all, the ride took about six and a half hours with stops and covered a distance of 66 kilometers (about 41 miles).

I took the pain meds at about 9 o'clock this morning and my knee still feels a lot better, so I think I'm in pretty good shape. I am now sitting down to enjoy the packed lunch that I was planning to eat after a two hour bike ride. Unfortunately, I placed it in the freezer instead of the fridge, so it is currently thawing.

Today was another good day. Exercise! Tomorrow will be my longest travel day yet: I depart Stryn at 9:40 and I don't arrive in Trondheim until after 10 pm. I'll be fine with a day of rest, however.

Pretty flowers along the road to Loen

Sweet glacier

Check out the hot, hot ice on rock action!

The innermost reaches of the Nordfjord

1 June

2009-06-01T10:21:00.000-07:00

Well, today was the day.

I awoke at 8:15 and actually had a great breakfast at this hostel! I had an orange, a waffle with jam (!!!), and strawberry yogurt with muesli. I have never really been a fan of yogurt, but on this trip I am starting to warm up to it. Particularly mixed with muesli. SOOOO GOOOD.

Getting to the ski center is usually pretty simple - there is a bus that goes from Stryn to the Ski center (45 minutes away), but right now it isn't running. I don't know why. So I was only able to get to the Folven, at the base of the mountain. Folven is basically a big drunken party full of skiers and snowboarders from around the world. Everyone I had spoken to assured me that I could just show up and get a ride without a problem. Surely enough, the first group I approached offered bring me along.

Bjorn and Inge brought me along in their car and we drove up the mountain together. They got me there quickly, gave me some basic advice, and Bjorn lent me his (really, really nice) ski goggles. We were driving up the side of the mountain within minutes, which was really incredible. The road has only been driveable for a week now. The snow had been cleared, leaving somewhat of a canal which snaked its way to the top. In some places there were eight feet of snow visible; much higher amounts were present but unknown because there was no way to check! The trip to the ski center was truly surreal.

When we arrived I just had to rent gear and buy a lift ticket. Renting the gear was really quick and easy, because everyone in Norway has their own. The lift ticket was also pretty straight forward. I found the prices to be very reasonable by Norwegian standards. One day ski rental was $50.00 and my lift pass was $65.00. Considering the once-in-a-lifetime factor, I was happy to pay up. All that was left now was the mountain/glacier. Most of what I skied on today was a glacier, albeit covered in 15-30 feet of snow. The ski center gets around 30 feet of snow in a typical season, and it never totally melts. (It's supposed to snow on Wednesday, actually.)

After gearing up, I made my way to the lifts. First there was a traditional chairlift, which brought me from 3500 feet to 4300 feet. Then, there was this thing called a t-bar lift. To use it, you grab this T-shaped bar, tuck it behind yourself, and lean back. The sensation is something analagous to waterskiing uphill. The T-bar brought us from 4300 feet to the top of the mountain at 5300 feet. (!)

So, this one time I went skiing in West Virginia. Hahaha...

Before today, I had been skiing twice at Snowshoe Mountain. I was expecting the skiing to be challenging, but manageable.

To put it bluntly, I got pwned. The "easy" trails were much steeper than I anticipated, and the snow was difficult to maneuver in. It was very heavy, because there had been several consecutive days where the temperature did not drop below freezing. On my first run, I made my way very clumsily down the mountain, crashing every few minutes. When I skied for the first time a few years ago I suffered initially with the Zoolander complex; I wasn't an ambiturner. Only being able to turn one way makes slalom skiing very difficult (read: painful). Today I was having similar problems, which were antagonized by the steepness, the heaviness of the snow, and my 16-month hiatus from skiing. One of the wipeouts twisted my right knee pretty badly because the ski didn't pop off, but it didn't slow me down too much.

On my second and third runs, I fell much less, but I was also in some pain from my earlier wipeouts. All in all, I lasted about 3 and half hours on the mountain before I was beat. I returned my equipment and managed to hitch a ride all the way back to Stryn, where I just took a long nap.

Upon awakening, my right knee is hurting a lot. Walking isn't a problem, but turning it or laterally shifting my weight is painful. Fortunately, I can put my feet up and relax for the rest of the evening. The pain isn't particularly acute, rather it is a constant reminder of the crazy day I have had. Oops! I am sunburned too. Oh well. Worth it.

Pretty blue ice/water

The Stryn Ski center from the first lift

The second (T-bar) lift, going the rest of the way up

Showing off my casual skiing attire at the top

The Strynfjell valley

Miraculously still standing after many falls!

31 May

2009-05-31T05:14:00.000-07:00

Die Wetterprognose für meinen Besuch in Stryn wird besser geworden!!!

PARTY MACHEN!!!

I have arrived safely in Stryn. The weather is still great, I'm hoping it holds for tomorrow. I 'spose I'll just post a few pictures for now. If all goes well, I'll be skiing all day.

Lillehammer, Norway, at 12:30 am

The famous ski jump site at Lillehammer's Olympic Park

Stryn

30 May

2009-05-30T13:39:00.001-07:00

Today was another big travel day. I had a six hour bus ride from Flåm to Lillehammer (site of the '94 Winter Olympics.)

I was expecting to do a lot of sleeping on the bus, but no dice. The scenery was absolutely stunning, to such an extent that the 6 hour ride went by startlingly fast. (Fast is an adverb now. Really!) One of the first things I got to experience on the ride was a trip through the longest tunnel in the world, which connects Aurland to Laerdal. The tunnel is 24.5 kilometers long, and is quite a feat of engineering!

After we passed through Laerdal (with similar scenery to Flåm and Aurland), the next hour of the trip occurred along some incredible whitewater. To my right, there were deadly rapids, and to my left, a green meadow overlooked by snow-topped mountains. In the second half of the trip, we drove around an enormous lake which perfectly reflected the mountains above it. Unfortunately, that was when my batteries died. So no pictures from the bus ride.

The last hour or so we drove through a dense evergreen forest, with Norwegian pines stretching all the way to the horizon in both directions. When we pulled into Lillehammer, I could hardly believe that it had been 6 hours. I trudged up a steep hill with all my gear and checked into my hotel. I guess I was rewarded for booking early... because I have my own shower and bathroom! A first, and certainly the only time I'll have this luxury on the trip. Apparently this is a huge holiday weekend in Norway, which explains why every room type at the HI hostel here was booked two months in advance...

Tomorrow I have another long day, at the end of which I arrive in Stryn.

Ski ho!

The weather today was incredible; 70 degrees and no clouds. I did get a few parting pictures of Flåm before I left this morning:

Panorama looking into town

Raging river heading into the Sognefjord

29 May

2009-05-29T08:27:00.000-07:00

Today was an administrative day. The weather forecast initially called for sunshine, but Flåm has been covered in clouds all day - pretty drab. I have taken advantage of the craptastic weather by doing laundry. (!!!) It was a great deal... only 10 dollars for a load... It was necessary. Aside from laundry, I've been planning my expenses and travels for the next week or so. The fluctuations between the dollar and the Norwegian kroner have been pretty wild, so it's been difficult to decide how much to withdraw at any given time. I'm getting burned pretty hard by all the crazy ATM fees... Scandinavia doesn't have any banks in the Global ATM Alliance.

It is almost 6:30 pm now, and it looks like the sun might be coming out finally... Maybe I'll go for a stroll.

Tomorrow, I am taking a bus to Lillehammer, the site of the 1994 Winter Olympics. I'll be staying there one night, and then I'll be traveling to Stryn, where I hope to go skiing.

Cute bed & breakfast near the water

Looking out from Flåm into the Sognefjord

28 May

2009-05-29T04:36:00.000-07:00

Norway wins at everything, forever.

In the dwindling hours of Wednesday night I hatched plans for a big hike: from Aurland (180 feet) to the Prest peak (4100 feet). I awoke at 9 o’clock and caught the grocery store right after opening to buy some snacks for the trip: sandwiches, bananas, and a liter of SUPER JUICE. Everyone knows that bananas are super fruits, but in Norway they also have super juice: a mix of orange, apple, passion fruit, mango, pineapple, apricot, and banana. It made me uncomfortably energetic. Good thing, too.

Yeah, so, the hike. I took a bus from Flåm to Aurland, where the hike officially began at 10 o’clock. After walking down the road for a while, I came to the 300 foot Turlifossen waterfall, a very conspicuous trail marking. I hopped the fence and strolled past some very confused livestock, following the red T-marks that stretched the length of the hike. For four and a half hours, I made my arduous ascent, stopping occasionally to take pictures. I passed countless waterfalls, babbling brooks, small clearings, and several snowbanks. The weather gradually improved over the course of the day, so by the time I reached Prest, I had an incredible view.

I was rather surprised, however, by the fact that I never saw any other hikers. I didn’t encounter any signs of life until halfway through my descent, when I met a nice English couple from the Isle of Wight. They had hired a car, and offered me a ride back to Flåm when I made it down to Aurland again. I gladly accepted, and thus saved some bus fare.

All in all, the hike lasted 8 hours. I would reason that I walked about 25 miles; one of the longest hikes I’ve ever done. I am already aching as I write this, but it is a very gratified soreness. I’ll sleep well tonight.

I suppose a few pictures are in order.

The 300 foot high Turlifossen waterfall, marking the beginning of the trail

DOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!

Sognefjorden Panorama (Click for full view)

In the panorama, the town visible in the top right corner is Flåm, where I am staying. A little further to the right and closer to the bottom is Aurland, the beginning and ending point for my hike.

Norway pwns!

27 May

2009-05-27T09:25:00.000-07:00

Today I rose at seven and had my final breakfast at the Montana hostel. I’ll surely miss that place, with their great view, their nice free internet and common spaces, their good breakfast, and their four-bunk room with no roommates…

I caught the bus into town at eight and boarded my regional train, which took me from Bergen to Myrdal, the junction station for the Flåmsbana, the famous rail connection to Flåm. The ride via the Flåmsbana was really incredible. We dropped more than 2000 in elevation in about half an hour. We were able to stop a few times along the way for photographs, and they were truly incredible. What was also incredible was the fact that it was snowing. Even the locals were surprised to see such late snowfall.

After an hour-long ride, we had arrived in Flåm. It is really, really beautiful here. This town is really tiny; the largest structures by far are the two cruise ships that have docked out in the fjord. There is only one grocery store here, which immediately attracted my attention. For lunch I had sausage, onions, bread, and some chocolate. I have accidently booked a single room at the hostel in Flåm, but it is such a good deal that I’m keeping it. I am now living in a big cabin that has a block of six (four empty) rooms, a large sitting area with couches and a dining table, a bathroom, and a full kitchen (stove, fridge, oven, microwave, water boiler, dishes, sink, cabinet.) All inclusive, I am paying about fifty dollars a night. Fine with me!

The only drag is that there is no internet access… I spoke with the reception lady, who informed me that they are installing internet access in all the rooms this weekend. My timing sucks.
As for the weather, the snow has changed to mostly rain after our drop in elevation, and I am definitely not in the mood to go on another long, wet hike just yet. I am still sore from yesterday, so I think I might opt for a quiet afternoon in peace at my cabin here. If it clears up, I’ll slip out to take some more pictures. There are snow-capped mountains in just about every direction, and as soon as the weather clears it’ll make for some spectacular panoramas.

Nap time!

Ahhh…. I slept until 5:30 so the only grocery store in town is now closed.

Poor planning. However, I found a place where there is some wireless, albeit a weak signal. My Macbook has been really bitchy about its WiFi since I got it, and it really kicked it into high gear in Europe. I am now sitting with my computer 3 inches away from the router, and it seems to like that enough to work.

Posing with the Kjosfossen, a 300 foot waterfall along the Flåmsbana

26 May

2009-05-26T14:41:00.000-07:00

Well, today was even crazier than yesterday, but for different reasons. I started this morning with doing some final odds and ends at the office, including putting together some more "Festival Performer" name tags... I was glad to finally get out of the office for the hike.

I met my new friend David, a close friend of Per's, and we set out for our five hour excursion through town, into the woods, and up into the mountains. Our hike started in Bergen at sea level and finished at the top of a nearby mountain at over 1500 feet. Pretty epic. The majority of the epic-ness was a product of the unrelenting torrential rain that accompanied us for our entire trip. The water penetrated my vertex jacket, my shirt, my backpack, and my camera case inside of my backpack. The trail we took to the summit had transformed into a creek for our return.

When we were back into the city at last I was a walking sponge. (Fortunately, my camera survived.) Thankfully, Norway showed me once again its greatness when David's sister let us use her apartment to shower and dry our clothes. Clean and energized with a cup of green tea, I had to run back to the office to gather all of my things. Then I met Per, Kaja, David, and his sister at Grieghallen to see a Norwegian folk performance.

It was incredible!

I was expecting to fall asleep at the show, because I was absolutely exhausted from the hike and getting soaked through. However, the folk performance was amazing, and it turned out to be my favorite event from the whole festival. The show featured numerous Norwegian favorites, but many of them were performed with a contemporary spin. It featured a full orchestra accompanied by two incredible vocalists, an accordion, and one of the coordinators of the festival who played on pots and pans with a spatula. The performance was witty, fun, and exciting. I have a whole new opinion of folk music now.

After the show I fought off the temptation to just pass out back at the hostel and went for one last drink with Per and Kaja. They thanked me for all of my help with the festival, but I actually feel even more grateful to have had such great friends here in Bergen. I will never forget their enthusiasm and great company.

And now I am going to bed. Big day tomorrow.

Last signaling torch of the chain that stretches all the way back to Oslo!

Very reflective bog along the trail

Fairwell photo with Per and Kaja at the Logen bar

25 May

2009-05-26T01:57:00.001-07:00

Yesterday (referring to the 25th) was totally nuts. It was my busiest day yet in terms of work. It was a lot of the familiar stuff - running errands, making trips to the post office, sorting files, etc... I also was charged with making about 400 laminated "Festival Artist" passes, which took a long time. At the end of the day, I got to go see a performance of Jon Fosse's Todesvariationen, a tragic play, at the Bergen theatre. Fosse's plays are performed around the world, and this particular one was performed by a group from Zurich, so I got to see it in German. The play was absolutely fantastic, and I would have to make it my second favorite play I've ever seen. (First still goes to Shaffer's Equus, which I saw performed in Chapel Hill years ago.) Anyway, today I am taking it a little easier, since this my last day in Bergen. In a few hours I am going to go hiking in the mountains with a friend I met here.

Other than that, I have a lot of organizational stuff to take care of. Exciting news: After making some calls using the phone here, I successfully reached the bus service in Stryn. The sixth number to which I was referred finally landed me with someone who could answer my questions, and I know now that I will at least be able to make it to the campsite at the base of the mountain (180 ft). From there, I will need to find someone with which to hitchhike to the Ski center (3600 ft.) where I will rent ski gear and take the ski lift to the top of the mountain (5200 ft.) Finding a ride shouldn't be too tough because the Folven camp site pretty much exclusively serves skiers at the ski center.

All of this skiing business doesn't happen until June first, but I have to figure this stuff out now because I don't think my hostel in Flåm has internet access. So I might be going off the air for a few days. (I know you guys are all devastated.)

I'll leave you with a few pictures from the past day or two.

Sunset at 11:15

Backstage at Grieghallen before the showing of Bach's Johannespasjonen (St. John's Passion)

24 May

2009-05-24T08:33:00.000-07:00

I was interviewed by the newspaper a few days ago about my role as a volunteer and the issue came out today.

The caption translates:

Tory Smith is from the USA, and is working as a volunteer as a runner for the administration and artist contact for the soloists in the Johannespasjonen.

"I have planned the trip to Norway for two years, and pursued a scholarship to go there, among other things, to work
for the festival. I have Scandinavian ancestry, and I see this as a golden opportunity to experience the culture
and be familiar with the friendly folk here in Bergen and the festival. As a volunteer I will be a link between management and artists."

Yeah!

Also, Penguin!

I visited Bergen Akvariet today, which has the largest collection of fish and sea birds in Europe. Although it was smaller than most of our aquariums, they did have some really cool penguins and several species of seals. Besides that, work continues as usual, even on Sunday. Tonight I am going to see my four artists in their big performance at Grieghallen. I'm thinking of trying to get some laundry done tonight or tomorrow. I'm really excited for my trip to Flåm on Wednesday...coming up!

A larger collection of photos from my trip thus far are online here:

http://www.new.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2046906&id=1398780165&l=70a2f23e10

23 May

2009-05-23T03:44:00.000-07:00

Hey! The sun came out!

The weather got nice today. (See above!)

Working with the festival staff in Bergen has been an absolute joy. I arrived here in the afternoon on the 20th, rather worn out and famished from my long day of travel. When I finally found the festival headquarters and got to the fourth floor, I was ready to pass out. Then I walked in through the double doors into a whole new world (cue Aladdin music.)

This entire place is saturated with an infectious enthusiasm and a sense of communal spirit that makes it easy to be productive. We work hard and we get a lot done, but we certainly enjoy ourselves in the process. The atmosphere here occasionally reminds me of something you would see on The Office. The people here can occasionally be just as goofy as Michael Scott, but they are actually competent at what they do. I don't feel intimidated by the presence of my superiors here.

For example, here is my boss:

Per Brynning, Head of the Volunteer Department

Today I have some more artist contact work to do, as well as some administrative work later this afternoon. Tonight, however, I'm going with Per and Kaja to see the electronica group Matmos. It's going to be really, really weird. I can't wait.

22 May

2009-05-23T03:05:00.001-07:00

Well, today was a lot more working. I met all of my artists and got them checked into their super swaggy 2000 NOK/night hotel rooms. I also made lots of deliveries, stuffed some more folders and envelopes, and did some other office-oriented work. Since my first two artists arrived at noon and my second two arrived at midnight, my evening was totally open to explore the city a bit. It finally stopped raining at about seven, which was nice.

What was even nicer was Per and Kaja inviting me out for dinner and drinks at Cafe Opera and then Lugen! (Pronounced "Looshen.") I had some really awesome falafel with baba ghanoush, and I finally got to try some Norwegian beer. Festival staff get a discount at some of the bars and restaurants in Bergen, so a pint of beer was only 48 NOK! (About $8.00.) Needless to say, I won't be doing much drinking over here. I got to try the Oslo beer and the local Bergen beer, both pilseners. They were pretty good, I would say about on par with a typical German pilsener - except about three times as expensive.

After I finally had all four of my artists checked in it was past midnight, so I had to find the bus and get back to my hostel, five miles or so from the city center. I didn't get back until after 1 am, which was the latest I've been up since I got here. I am far north enough now that it never truly gets dark, rather it gets "darker." Even in the middle of the night with an overcast sky I have to draw the curtains to block the light.

Waterworks near the SAS Radisson Hotel

Bergen by day

Same spot, at around 1:15 am

21 May

2009-05-21T08:28:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I met Per Brynning (volunteer coordinator) and Kaja Jorem (artist contact coordinator) and today I finally got to start working with them. I have been doing all sorts of things to help get the festival running. Even though it officially began yesterday, it will be coming into full swing over the next week. I've been stuffing and distributing artist info envelopes, delivering programs to various venues, and running errands here and there for the higher-ups. Tomorrow the real work begins: I will be working as an artist contact for three soloists from Germany and one from Iceland. Apparently they are all world renowned for their singing; if you are interested you can google them! (Christoph Prégardien, Finnur Bjarnesón, Ingeborg Danz, and Christina Landshamer.)

Bergen is really pretty. However, a gigantic southern-Norway-shaped low pressure system has parked itself over southern Norway, so it has been overcast for most of my time here. Bergen is an old Hanseatic trade city, and was actually the capital of Norway for a while. There is still a lot of German influence visible in the architecture, but some of the names have been changed due to post-WWII sentiments. The city center opens into the harbor and out to the ocean, adding to a really nice maritime feel. Stands selling fresh fish and Norwegian fruits de mer are are perched all around. Many of the stands are preparing the fish on the spot with vegetables and spices and selling it ready-to-eat, so the smells are heavenly. Prices are high indeed, but this is no surprise.

I'll be needing to head out shortly - I am going to see a musical performance at Grieghallen, the main site for most of the events at this years festival. Thanks to my handy "Event Staff" card thingy, I'll be able to get in for free.

This is where I work now

Bergen Harbor, near downtown

The opulent performance hall in Grieghallen

20 May

2009-05-20T09:11:00.000-07:00

Well, today was travel day. And lots of it.

Last night, however, was a great final evening in Oslo. When I got back to the Hostel to make dinner the kitchen was totally full of German Architecture students from the University of Nürnberg. They were making a week-long trip to Oslo to explore some of the neoclassical buildings and the new Opera House. They were also making scalloped potatoes. Nice. I introduced myself and they were perplexed and impressed that I was studying German back in the United States. As a result, I got to have dinner and drinks afterwards with a nice group of my peers - and practice my language skills. I retired at around 11 o'clock in preparation for today's journey.

I got up this morning at 6:15, showered, and ate a quick breakfast before tramming to downtown Oslo one last time to catch my train. Oslo to Bergen might not look like very far on a map, but the terrain covered is riddled with steep mountains, majestic fjords, and deep snow. (Even in the summer!) So the trip took about seven hours - not that I was staring at my watch the whole time. The views were unbelievable. We departed Oslo Central Station (in the east) at 8 o'clock and arrived in Bergen (on the west coast) at about 3 o'clock. Our trip took us from sea level, to an elevation of 5000 feet, and back to sea level again. About two hours into the trip, snow started to appear in clumps on the mountains along the horizon. Then, after about three hours, we emerged from a long tunnel into a valley completely blanketed in several feet of snow that stretched for as far as the eye could see. Minutes later, we had a brief stop near Geilo, Norway where I had a chance to jump off the train and take a few pictures. I was obliged again a little later in Myrdal, after we had begun our descent from the mountains. I have now arrived safely in Bergen. The whole day has been surreal.

I am now sitting in the main offices for Festspilline Bergen, the international arts festival. I met with my new boss, Per Brynning, and the artist contact coordinator for the festival, Kaja Jorem, and got my shiny "Festival Staff" lanyard, which will allow me free entry to all the exciting events happening over the next week. There are over 1400 artists coming to Bergen from all over the world, and I am serving as a liaison to four of them. There is also a large jazz festival I am hoping to visit.

Gosh this is almost overwhelming. I still need to get a bus pass and check into my Hostel on the outskirts of the city before it gets too late. I wanted to make sure I could get some good internet beforehand though... I'm trying to keep you guys up to date and coordinate some things back at home.

I can fill in more details later, but right now I need to scavenge some dinner. Photos:

The shiny new Oslo Opera House

Myrdal, Norway: Junction for the Flåm Railway

Jumping off the train for a quick photo op near Geilo (sweet snowmobile!)

19 May

2009-05-19T08:19:00.000-07:00

This post comes from the Bocota Cafe in central Oslo, where I have purchased a cup of coffee in order to get some wireless access with my Macbook. I can finally upload pictures again! I have updated my post from 17 May with a few photos. Seriously check out the statue of the guy punting the baby if you haven't already. If you click on one of my pictures, you can see it at full resolution as well!

Anyway, today was museum day. Pretty much all the noteworthy attractions in Oslo are closed on Mondays, so today was the day to prowl about the city checking out the sights. Thanks to my trusty "Oslo Pass," I was able to get in to everywhere for free. My first stop was the Vikingskiphuset, a building in the outskirts of Oslo that houses the three best preserved Viking ships in the world, all of which were found in the Oslo area. Unfortunately, a lot of Viking kings preferred to be cremated along with their fleets and valuables, so there are a precious few remaining today. I was blown away by the level of craftsmanship in the vessels on display.

After paying homage to my seafaring ancestors, I made my way over to the Kon Tiki museum and had lunch. I packed a humble meal of Norwegian Laks (yum!) on a roll and a bit of chocolate. After my quick bite I checked out Thor (actually pronounced "Tor") Heyerdahl's Kon Tiki, a raft made of balsa wood. Heyerdahl was a scientist and outdoorsman that theorized that Polynesia could have been originally settled by Peruvians. No one believed him, so he traveled to South America and built himself a raft using ancient methods known to have been employed by the indigenous peoples of Peru and sailed it from Callao to Polynesia. What impresses me most is that he did this with a crew of only six men - in 1947 (no GPS!)

Right next door was the Frammuseet, a large A-frame structure enclosing the polar exploration vessel Fram, which was used on two successful North Pole expeditions and one trip to the South Pole. Fram was captained by the famous Norwegian explorers Nansen, Sverdrup, and Amundsen. Roald Amundsen was the first man to reach the south pole. The vessel was constructed to withstand being totally encased in solid ice for months at a time, so the walls are nearly three feet thick. Visitors to the museum can actually board the vessel and explore the decks and cabins. Really cool.

My last exploit of the afternoon was a visit to the Nasjonalgalleriet, one of Oslo's finest museums. I got to see Edvard Munch's "The Scream," which has been stolen from Oslo twice in the past fifteen years. Fortunately, it was available today. Just before I left the museum I walked through a room with a lot of stuff that looked familiar. Closer examination revealed an eclectic collection, including paintings by Monet, Van Gogh, Matisse, Picasso, Cézanne, Manet, Gauguin, and Degas. I had previously thought that the gallery only featured works of Norwegian origin, so I was taken aback to see such a varied collection.

The day is winding down here in Oslo; I need to take the tram back to my hostel soon to grab some dinner. I probably ought to go to bed early tonight - tomorrow I have a seven hour train ride to Bergen that leaves at 8 AM. I'll leave with a few pictures:

Viking Longboat, Circa 850 A.D.

The Kon Tiki raft, which drifted from Peru to Tahiti in 101 days

Walkway at the University of Oslo, near the Nasjonalgalleriet

18 May

2009-05-18T14:43:00.000-07:00

The weather today was the sucks. 45 degrees with steady wind and rain. I slept in until 1 pm in protest and then ventured into the city with my two German roommates: Marcus and Michael. They are visiting for just a few days - they flew here via RyanAir and rented a car.

Unfortunately Oslo is much less beautiful when it is wet and gray-tinted, so I did not take nearly as many pictures today. Also - all the museums and attractions except for the parks were closed...so there was little to do. The highlight of my day was definitely going out for a Norwegian dinner! I ate super cheap on my first few days here, so I wanted to splurge and have something authentic. Tonight I had wasabi and cucumber glazed salmon with beans and potatoes with a soy reduction. Glass of wine too. It all came to 300 NOK (a little under 50 dollars including tip and tax). Pricey, but I wanted to eat some real Norwegian food.

Another thing I want to do is post more pictures, but my wireless will only work for 2 minutes at a time now, requiring restarts in between. This only gives me enough time to load 90% of a picture before the connection dies. No one else is having any problems. I spent a while cruising forums for a solution and I found out that there are hundreds of people having the same problems with their macbooks. No solution from Apple or elsewhere has worked. If any of you reading at home have some advice, let me know. I have tried just about everything. On an unrelated note, if anyone wants wants to punch an Apple Genius in the face, you have my blessing.

More to come later - I have to yield this free internet console to a couple of Russian teenagers.

17 May

2009-05-17T09:46:00.001-07:00

After going to bed last night at 6:00, I awoke this morning to chirping birds and a brilliantly shining sun. At 5:30. The weather when I went turned in for the night was eerily reminiscent of Blacksburg: windy, rainy, and cold. Today, however, it is gorgeous. I could see all the way out to the Oslo fjord from my breakfast table. The hostel breakfast was great. Norwegian breakfast resembles German breakfast: there are cheeses (Jarlsberg!), cold meats, jams and jellies, fresh vegetables, muesli, and grainy breads. A few Norwegian additions include pickled herring, beets, and a few substances I have yet to identify. The coffee and juices are excellent.

Today is Syttende Mai: Norwegian Independence Day. Oslo on a typical day is pretty busy, but today the city was a zoo. Not thinking clearly, I wore my orange effect t-shirt today. (Norway’s national colors are red, white, and blue, just like ours.) Most people wear the Norwegian colors on Syttende Mai. Others wore traditional Norwegian garb or their finest Sunday clothes with red and white ribbons.

I probably saw three quarters of a million people today. The only other person wearing an orange shirt was a hobo.

I felt rather out of place, but the festive atmosphere and the great weather were a good distraction. There were a smattering of different parades, but the biggest one was the traditional children’s parade, which went on for a good three hours. I visited Slottet (the Royal Palace), Stortinget (Parliament), and the brand new Opera house, which was just finished in 2006. The building is really quite remarkable – the whole outside is tiled with marble and it rises on a majestic slant right out of the harbor. On the inside there is a Guggenheim-esque rising spiral with a cool wooden pattern. Definitely the coolest building I have seen in Oslo. The urinals in the men’s restroom were pretty flipping sweet too.

I grabbed some Subway for lunch (95 NOK = 12 dollars) and then made my way over to Vigeland park and statue garden, where I encountered a statue featuring a man that I fondly refer to as “the baby basher.” This Vigeland guy would have been an interesting dinner guest to say the least. Most of his work was weird and some of it was downright grotesque, but it was pretty cool to look at.

I’m having my other frozen pizza from yesterday now. The past two days I have spent less than half of my $40/day food budget – but I am hoping to save money in the first few weeks because I did not account for my possible day of skiing in Stryn on my original budget.

It’s 6:30 and I am tired again – I can tell I’m still not adjusted to European time. I’m going to stay up a bit later tonight to hopefully allow myself to wake up at a more normal time tomorrow. 6:30 instead of 5:30, perhaps? A few pictures from my busy day:

The illustrious baby basher with victims in tow

Oslo Harbor

Syttende Mai parade along Karl Johans Gate

16 May

2009-05-16T08:23:00.000-07:00

Hello everyone. I have landed safely and successfully made my way to the Haraldsheim Hostel in Oslo, 4 km from the city center. It’s my first day in Scandinavia (and Norway) and I have already learned several new things:

1. I do not speak Norwegian.

I just returned from the grocery store, where I bought two pizzas and a bar of chocolate, which rang up for 75.90 NOK – roughly 12 dollars. Fortunately everything was well labeled and I was able to see my total on the cashier’s display, thus avoiding a total communication failure. I had a delightful conversation with the young woman working the register.

TORY - smiling, dumbfounded: Uhhhhh…

CASHIER – smiling: Birkelsojidorf sikfj suudkj rweoiru. Sodudk skojd ox?

TORY – still smiling, handing over the money: Um.

CASHIER – accepting money, puzzled at lack of response: Sodudk skojd ox?

TORY – clearly distressed: Yes.

CASHIER – frowning: Tslkjdoiook durpfk. Dfjek uyoot.

TORY – apologetic, dismayed at unintentional breach of etiquette: Danke. (Oops!)

Aside from my most recent experience buying groceries, everyone I have met in Oslo has spoken impeccable English, in many cases with no discernable accent. I have my handy dandy Norwegian phrase book, but I haven’t needed it yet. I guess at the store I was too embarrassed to break into English. I’m eating one of those pizzas right now – Jarlsberg cheese, ham, and mushrooms. Delicious.

2. Norwegians are realllly friendly.

I landed in Norway with no train reservations, no bus tickets, no map, and no friends. I was quite pleased with how easy it was to get all of those things taken care of in almost no time at all. Not only does everyone here speak English – they are also really friendly! I have been to a lot of places where I felt like I was part of some sort of invasion. Certainly not the case here… I have now paid for all of my accommodations, transit needs, and admission fees for the next four days. I pulled out 3000 NOK this morning after I landed, and half of it is gone as a result. I have experience working with the Euro, the Pound, and the Swiss Franc, all of which are comparable to the dollar in spending power. So, finding out that a bottle of water is 18 NOK is taking some time to get used to.

3. I love me some Jarlsberg.

Well, I am going to take a few more bites of this pizza and then it’s time to tram back down to the city center for some exploring. It’s almost 2 pm Norway time, which means I’ve been awake for 21 hours now. I haven’t crashed yet, but I know it’s coming. My goal is to make it to 5 pm.

A few pictures from day one:

The Haraldsheim Hostel, 4 km from the city center

View from the rear of Haraldsheim